Less than a month to go...

We leave at the end of june, and then this will no longer be home.

Song-Pu Village (our home)

Parenthood: To love something so much, and to feed it only Guava Tree Leaves...

The back story: Working at four schools gives me a lot of face time with a lot of people. And every school has its own flavour (one is focused on aboriginal Taiwanese culture, where I learn a lot of mythology and cultural practices of the pre-Chinese Taiwanese; another is all about sports, where I get to dig into the athletic world of Taiwan; another is all about health and trying to discourage betel nut chewing and smoking, where I get to meet the forefront of the Taiwanese version of 'healthy schools'; and the final is...well...it is just a school that plugs through each day).

All grant me a different taste of Taiwan, a different perspective and are all growing experiences to say the least. But, the one that has the least as a school ("plug through each day") actually offers us the most. You see, employed there is a mastermind of Taiwan ecology. I mentioned in an earlier post that teaching there is akin to an ecology lesson each day. He tells me stories, explains plants, has an astounding butterfly conservatory on the school grounds, knows everything ("Teacher Wu.....I saw a bunch of red bulbs in the rice on the way to work today...what is it" BAM! A whole ecology lesson follows...what they are (snail eggs) and their place in the grand spectrum of Taiwan, nature and, yes, the rice (that they feed on to the chagrin of the farmers). Anywho, the point is that he is a wonderful man and a wonderful source of informaiton, and I try my best to fit a little lesson into each day. The hardest part to swallow - he asks me often "is Taiwan really beautiful...I have never left, I dont know. I have nothing to compare it to". He doesnt even realize, despite my assertions that the east coast of Taiwan is one of the prettiest, most diverse and profound places if you dig into the forests and ravines. He lives in the lap of biological luxury, tutors me on it, and has no idea. But he knows he loves it. And above all he loves to share it with me. And share it he does.

Working at his school has been aTaiwanese biology course, and, of course, there are the perks: earlier he gave us a butterfly chrysalis to baby sit until it sprang forth a fluttering butterfly, he gave me leaves to add to coffee (wild cinnamon!) from the grounds of the school and, just the other week, he gave us this to babysit:



This critter (Phyllium weswoodi or Phyllium ...?) is our little guest for a while. I think it is perhaps called the 'ghost insect' for the way that it wobbles when it walks around (a perfectly evolved mimic for a waving leaf on a real tree). The thing is, it only eats the leaves of the guava tree - and there are no guava farms nearby, nor are there any wild guava tress popping their heads around our house. The only source is at that one school - one lone tree sitting out front of my office door. So, each time I go there I pluck a weeks ration for this little critter (Herby) and stick it in some water and give it a nice big snack. The timing works out quite nicely as by the time the new rations arrive, the old ones are starting to dry up and die. Herby is super excited for the fresh feed!

And here are two pictures of the Flame Tree - so nammed because the flowers on the crown of the tree resemble, from a distance, a fire. It is actually quite a beautiful sight. The main road by our house is lines with these trees, and biking down a row of bright red topped trees with the big black seed pod and the juicy green leaves bordering you is quite nice. Quite nice indeed!

Down to Dawu Village: Ocean, vines and a machete

This weekend, sans camera (Crystal has it in St. Lucia), I took a venture to a place yet travelled by us - Dawu. This is a little village torn between being a fishing village (yet no port or dock to develop a "fish market" vibe) and a forgotten dot on the map. It is a place that people stop by to grab a tea, re-fill their betel nut bag, or make a bathroom stop. It is not a usual place to be destined towards. But, alas, I found myself destined to be there.

I had wanted for some time now to check the area out....a few hours south by train, on the coast and in the mountains all at the same time (I hiked in the mountains during the day and before I could lose that taste of a fresh piece of gum I was walking on the beach). It is not a vacation style place, but there is a beach that stretches for some 10 or more kilometers and at any given time will have 3, or if it is a good fishing day, 4, people on it. So, as I sat and stargazed at night with the waves lapping before me and the moon illuminating the cobble and sand beach, I was alone.

It was an investigation weekend mostly, poking around the woods, up the mountain and drinking water and tea non-stop to try to keep my liquid intake on par with my sweat output. It is a typical village of Taiwan, people are friendly and curious - a lot of staring and "hello" calls - but also one that typifies the level of development of Taiwan. Taiwan is developed in terms of technology and health care, but severely lacking in terms of environmental infrastructure and heightened poverty and all the things that go along with that. It is a, pardon the outdated phrase, a third world country in a first world suit.

An example, you ask? Every house in the village had a satellite dish, yet people still cook with fires and steel pots outside their house, fueled by driftwood. Can't afford neither propane or the necessary materials to make the propane into a workable stove, so the old way persists. Another? Pig blood. The main little supermarket/everything shop was a cozy little place with the owner scooping and mixing fresh pig blood from the pig that was that morning slaughtered (in the back of the shop, no less) in the middle of the store, as I walked around looking for a banana and some tea. Right beside the bags of vegetables and greens, and to the rear of him the remains of said pig. No separation between the slaughter, the cutting or the cleaning and the rest of the shop. Its the way it goes. So it goes. I never knew how bad freshly killed pig smelled. I confess that it is the worst smell I have encountered.

Anyway, the tiny town on the shores of the Pacific was a delight. Hot, sunny and I got to play in the mountains and swim in the ocean - both places which I had totally to myself. I got to try out my newly purchased machete as the vines in the woods, once I left the trail, were unrelenting. It was like they were actually trying to stop me from moving...not just being benign vegetative organisms. They were out to get me. So, with my machete swinging, sweat flying off me like shrapnel, eyes flickering from tree to tree looking for snakes, I trudged through the woods. Then I came to a cliff - almost sheer but spotted with trees and protruding roots. And I decided to try my hand at going down it. you see, at the bottom was a huge river valley that I wanted to cross, and this was simply the quickest way. It was sloped enough that I could look at it and think I could make it, but halfway down, I realized that was a mistaken thought. Then the decision....up...down....stay put....? With all the amassed strength and with I could call up I scrambled back up, trusting dead trees when I had no other choice and feeling an utter sense of relief when I got back to the top. Then, I remembered the vines. out of one battle, back into another!

It ended well, it was an amazing little jaunt into the woods and what make it even more spectacular is that once I got back on the main trail there was a clear view of the ocean. Glittering blue and jade, an endless vista of Pacific water. And that was as good as any of a time to take a break and drink in the moment.

Afterwards, I made it (quickly) to the ocean, had a prolonged swim and spent some time poking around town drinking tea, got a (the only...) hotel for $12CAD and hit up a little place across the road for dinner. Then, once darkness fell and the moon and venus were poking their heads out I took to the beach once more and spent the evening with my binoculars and the celestial bounty above, and the aquatic beauty before me.

The next day it absolutely poured. Like the ocean was flipped on top of us.

That's Taiwan, developing in places, developed in others, beautiful in all of it once you uncloak the rough edges and take in the beauty for what it is worth. And then there is the adventure. Not hard to find.

So much more to see....every little dot on the map, and all places between, offers a secret. It just takes time....

May 15 - 16

This weekend was a fast footed trip to Hualien to look at a possible apartment for next year, then to Taipei as Crystal had to catch a flight at 6pm (we, here in Song-Pu Village are about 2 hours from Hualien, and Hualien is about 4 hours...by train...from Taipei. If we catch the good trains we can do the straight trip in perhaps 5.). Where was she going, you ask?

St. Lucia.

Yup, off to the sunny climes of the islands for her brothers wedding. Ten days, or thereabouts, on the beach and into the innards of the island. Then back to Taiwan, back to work for a few weeks, and then right back westward for the summer! Busy, busy.

We saw the apartment - nice, rather big and very western (oh so different than our place this year.....oh, so very different) and high up on the list of possible places. Its furnished, the 2nd place apartment is not, but it is cheaper. So, we will end up paying about the same if we buy furniture for the cheaper place...not yet decided.

Then to Taipei! Snoozed on the train ride and woke up a few stops before Taipei main. Launched ourselves off the train...up the stairs...across the road and to the bus station. Crystal got on the bus, we said goodbye and off she went. This is where her story ends. At this time she has landed, probably.

My end of the story took me on a search for the Shandong Temple, with no luck, and to Taipei 101 to grab some new English books (Eight Little Piggies, Asian Geographic and What the Dog Saw) and then on a random walk through a dusty part of town that took me to a fashionable old Taiwan Brewery that has turned itself into a historic monument. It is no longer a brewery, at all. It is now a cement building - grounds actually, of many buildings - that houses artisan shops, historic plaques, high end tea exhibits and music venues and restaurants. A bit of something for everybody, and it is a hopping place at night. I went to a place that actually served dark beer....a total rarity in Taiwan (Erdinger Dark...not Taiwanese, despite them having a world class dark brewed by the active Taiwan Beer company...strange) and read my new book and ate....pizza! Stone oven pizza. The real deal. This probably means nothing to anybody....but we have not had legit pizza all year (save for our toaster oven attempts....which are good, but c'mon.....stone oven pizza?!?!? Tummy-licious).

So, I ate pizza and sipped a pint while reading my new book on the walkways of the historic site, watching young and old alike assemble in a studio to watch Asia-Punk music, while families meandered through the crowds and fancily dressed couples took their place in the evenings warmth among the tables and nooks of the grounds to enjoy the evening. It was a totally random find, and a totally awesome one.

Sunday found me trudging through the worlds most crammed and orderly market in another random part of town. I woke up, took to the streets and walked for 30 minutes or so until I found a little alley that seemed noisy. Down the alley, around the corner, and into the mix of a market basking in the morning sun. I walked for an hour up and down, bought some fresh almonds and drank in the atmosphere. So much fresh food, veggies and potatoes and everything you could possibly want to eat. So splendid (and so cheap!!).

Then, off to the train station for lunch, then to my train and home.

G'night.

The winds of change...

So, some things to tidy up around here.

1) Next year - It is official that we are staying another year, but moving to another city. Back to the city we lived in last time - the first time - we were here. Better employment opportunities, better pedagogical development and a link to a University that is simply marvelous. We will be in the midst of packing, moving and re-establishing ourselves in a new place hopefully very soon.

2) Seasons - Summer is here, somewhat. Sunny days, +30 temperatures and the sure signs of the hot season at the market. Mangoes! The mangoes are here, the pineapples are here and the peaches are here. Summer fruit. The seasonality of both the fruit and the vegetables that we have access to adds a simple, yet pronounced, flavour to life out here. Now that the fruit markets are populated by the summer fruit, it can be our proxy of the weather to come. Get ready for more mentions of sweat, unbearable heat and unberable heat that is unbearable!

3) New blog is in the works. Not like this, not for travel stories or cultural explanations, but for biodiversity. It is the beauty of Taiwan that drove us to it. We are amassing all our biological pictures and organizing them in a phylogenetic (loose structure, some are clumped some are not...we are trying to be precise, but not perfectly so) blog. The biodiversity of Taiwan, through the lens of two expats as they tromp through the woods and the markets and the streets and the mountains of Taiwan. Wait for it...

Walami Cabin - Success!!

The forests of Taiwan...

Deciding to stay "around home" this weekend was something that we have looked forward to - so often we venture far and away, to the islands, to the parks to the north, to the city to anywhere away from home to find adventure. But there is so much to do around here, so much to see that will not be as accessible next year (we are moving 2 hours north). So, we decided to make a habit of doing things around here that we have either put off or have not really considered before. This weekends goals were to hike the Walami Trail and to bike to the Butterfly Valley. We had been to both places before, but two things were special this time around: We had never made it to the actual Walami Cabin 13km up the valley and we had never biked to the Butterfly Valley, only scootered before. So, goals set, weather in line, food packed and permits ready...out we went.

Walami

We have written abou this trail before, so the shortened version is that it is an old wartime trail constructed by the Japanese and since turned into a cultural focal point for the Bunun people and more recently turned into the main trail in this part of YuShan National Park. The park is rather huge, with many trails that meander their way to the top of Taiwan, YuShan (Jade Mountain). And beautiful. This is a prime place to spot macaques, muntjacks, partridges and the part of teh island where...somewhere out there...the elusive sunbear lives. And the trail rocks..totally rocks! Steep clifs, numerous suspension bridges, waterfalls, mossy slopes, craggy outcrops, dense primary forests, cicadas, birds, frogs, fog, and every tree Taiwan has to offer from palms to pines, cloud trees to cycads. Ok, those are not actually trees....the Cycads....but you get the point! Lots of stuff to see....easy to get lost in the moment as you pound your way up through the mountain.

We arrived at the park office, obtained our permit, and then went to the police station to get the permit validated and whatever it is that they do. It takes them about 20 minutes to type out another sheet of paper that will allow you to simply walk the trail...good to limit use and to monitor use, and it gave us a chance to chat with the other officer on duty about just about everything he could think to ask. And he gave us tea. Nice place to visit, those police stations.

Left: Us, at lunch, along the Walami trail. Right: Trevor starting again after a hurried break on our way to the cabin.

On the trail...hike hike hike. We knew we were getting a late start, so we made good time when we could. After a while we got to our 'normal' turn around point, just after the third bridge. The 10 km point is where we normally realize that it will be getting dark soon, that we had better turn around because we dont have lights and we dont want to fall off the cliffs. Understandable. But today....shucks to your asthmar!! Lets go! We stopped for a minute, both chose to force our way to the top and readied ourselves to run back down the trail to make it to our scooter in daylight. Ready....set....go!

Stop.

Police.

Permit please.

No permit...we had left it in our scooter. Damnit!

We were told to turn around immediately, go back down and get off the trail. These police were monitoring the trail for permit holders, at the end of a multi day trek themselves. The did not seem amused by our claims that we had one but "forgot it". Yeah right....

We explained that we just wanted to go to the cabin, touch it and then return down. Not staying there, not sleeping on the mountain....but to no avail. Then, all of a sudden, the main officer got that look in his eyes and gave us the old 'just get out of here...keep going...' and off we went. No time to waste. As we arrived, triumphantly, at the Walami Cabin, the place that we had endeavoured to go to so many times before, we were met with a friendly welcome by those who had reached it earlier in the day (they were ultra suprised to find out that we intended to turn right around and go back down). We were offered, in the setting sun and dense fog that surrounded us, peanuts (no thanks, not hungry), tea (no thanks, no time) and Kaoliang liquor (proudly made in, and only in, Taiwn...um....what part of 3 hours of hiking still to do did they not realize?!?!?). We hung out for a picture and took off back down the mountain. We passed the police, themselves still decending the trail, and zoomed to our scooter in excellent time - legs pulsing, drenched in sweat and lungs gulping for air. As we arrived, go tthe scooter ready to go and were just about to leave the police made it to the trailhead....and we were able to proudly prove to them that we actually did have a permit and we, the Canadians, were not lieing to them.

Left: Us, at the cabin. Victory! All in all a 7 hour hike, round trip, in one of the purest parts of Taiwan. Right: map of the rest of the trail. the red box is where we are, to do the whole trail, one way, is about 7-10 days. We can dream....

Home, an excellent meal and a relaxed evening...with "Cloudy and a chance of meatballs" on our computer. Funny...simple, but cute movie. Cards, chess and chill time.

Post dinner festivities, listening to old "The Shadow" mystery shows on the

internet and playing the night away with cards and chess...

Butterfly Valley

Sunday, awakening the most relaxed we have been in a while, we took to our bikes and did the 30km trek to Butterfly Valley. Teh weather was perfect, sunny and clear for most of the day, and when the clouds did come in they were not giving us any rain whatsoever. Perfect. We rode all the way there in a somewhat uneventful, yet beautiful, way. There is a new bike path that connects one of the towns to all the little villages that dot their way up the rift valley that we were ever so pleased to be on. It mirrors the rail lines in places, and is an exceptions break from the roadways...totally a treat. When we arrived at the Butterfly Valley, we paid our entrance fee, found a place to eat lunch among the butterflies and chilled out. Then, up and away to poke our noses around the different areas, the trails and the butterfly enclosure that is always pounding with life. So many species, and we even got to see one butterfly (trying to) lay eggs. It seemed like a struggle. But ever so amazing.

Left: The season is back! They have started to harvest Day Lilies again, and soon the soups and stir-fry's of Taiwan will be supported by a healthy amount of flowers! This is a typical drying method, seen all over our village and the backroads of Taiwan, we suppose, for the entire summer season. Right: Crystal on her bike, with a scooter zipping by us.

Left: Our bikes on the bike trail from RuiSui to FuYuan (where the butterfly valley is). Above the bikes you can see the raised rail line. Right: Feedig time not only for the butterflies, but also the vast array of insects that call the valley home.

Left: one of the many caterpillars that crawl their way around the conservation area. Right: one of Taiwan's legally protected butterfly species.

After some tea and our fill of butterflies, we got back on our bikes and retraced our 30km home. All in all, an excellent trip...until...

*snap*

huh?

*snap*

what the?!?

*snap* *snap*

For crying out loud...I popped four spokes on my bike....FOUR! I mean, once one goes, I guess it is only a matter of time for the rest, but on my bike (a loaned biked) there seems to be always something broken. I was in la-la land of glee with the fact that it had been rather healthy of late....but....now I have a date with the bike store in Yuli. It was not enough to cloud the excellentnicity, the awsomnessedness of the day.

So, all in all...our bodies are sore! We made things that are the best representations that we could develop of veggie burgers last night (sunday) and some killer basil tomato tofu sauce to go with it. Good ride, good food. Good.

The remains of our veggie burger attempt sitting on our stove. On the right are the ever so amazingly tastey 'dragon wisker' veggies.

English Competition and Hiking the YueMei Trail...

No need to explain.

This weekend took us up north, to Hualien City. The annual English Competition for our county is held each year in a group of schools in the city. The performance include singing, readers theater, and dramas. Having four different schools, and having my hand in the preparation and organization of four different performances, it was a busy day to try to see them all. In the end I only saw two, one drama and one readers theater. No results yet, other than the readers theater performance that placed 5th (of more than 30 schools). This is awsome, they did awsome, and the kids are totally impressed with themselves. Good for morale, and it shows the kids that their hard work payed off. Lots of time spent tweaking, writing, changing, listening and rehersals on our, the teachers, part payed off as well. In the end, its the kids up there, doing their best. And they did. Im proud of them!

English drama performance from one of my four schools. It is the story of the betel nut. I have reservations of this topic, it is like our children performing a story of how cigarettes became so absorbed by our culture (betel nuts are primary causes of mouth cancer, throat cancer, ruin your teeth with a deep red stain and degrade the teeth themselves and smell/look/taste horrid). However, this was a well done story.

Afterwards, we had a Hualien evening, dinner and such (and apparently we have made a name for ourselves at one of our secret and frequented spots by the ocean...the owner was chatting about who we were, where we lived, etc and when we finally made the connection that we had been here many times she exclaimed "oh, your the people who always want peanuts!")

Sunday...to the forest! We scottered up the mountains to the trailhead for an amazingly secretive trail. People who know it, know it. the rest...its hidden. I heard fro mmy old principal that this trail existed and that there was also a road that cut right over the mountains, connecting the trail to the ocean. We had hiked it before, but it is so pretty, a good 4 hour slog and we were in the mood for some exercise. What cant be expressed with words....biodiversity. I know, I know....more about the bugs and such. But it is totally humbling to stand quietly among the shrubbery or in the forest or in the flower fields and see ho wmuch stuff is alive there. So much. All different. You see countless critters, and countless genera of critters. And countless families of genera, etc. It goes on. It is stunning. Anywho, we hiked in the blazing sun, through the woods and made it back to the trailhead in good time. Then to the ocean via the mysterious cross-mountain road that we were told of...across a landslide and a few sunken roads...and to the ocean. We made it! And we were greeted mightily with...rain. When we saw the ocean, off in the distance, it looked cool and blue. When we got there...the horizon was a blanket of water. Vertical water. not just low clouds, but an ocean standing on its end. heading towards us.

Drive! Drive!

Too late. We stopped in a tunnel, donned our rain gear and kept on going. To the train station, returned the scooter, grabbed some dinner and slumped in exhaustion in our seats on the train. Two hours to read, drink our tea and - done with extreme anger - confront a smoker and demand that she put it out while on the train. I even went as far as to grab the smoke from her, pinch it out and have a subtle tug of war with her...I wanted to toss it on the ground and smear it into oblivion, she wanted to smoke it. I won. Well, she kept it, but I watched her go back to her seat and put it back in her pack. Trevor - 1. Random train smoker - 0.

Left, a thorn covered plant...never before seen thorns growing on the leaf structure itself before. Evolution run wild, I suppose! On the right, the view as we crossed the mountain pass and started down towards the ocean.

Now we are home, back in the routine and working away. Keeping track of the oil spill, Greece and the blooming discussion (it'll be a huge one soon) of arctic soverignty and resource rights. Never a dull moment.