Sunday, April 17, 2011

Bike Trip: Hualien to Shitiping to RuiSui to Hualien

A road drenched in sunlight, bathed in heat, and two empty days on our side allowed us to take a bike trip that we had been pondering for a while. We are working our way towards biking the entire eastern coast - not so much a mean feat, its just nearly impossible to do in a mere weekend, so we are piecing together the east coast weekend by weekend. This weekend we took the arduous, at points, 75km from Hualien City to Shitiping, a gorgeous fishing harbour and geological oddity south of us. We have been here before, but never by bike from Hualien. So, it was a must-do. Saturday we ventured south, camped on the coast, and then crossed the coastal mountain range and ended our trip Sunday in Ruisui. An amazing trip, gorgeous weather (Saturday, especially) and legs left asking us, politely, why the hell we do this to them. The hills....the freaking hills....

The trip started in the city, but soon left the confines of urbanization and entered the glory of the East coast and its natural beauty. Along the way we were able to hug the coast and watch the turquoise ocean lap at Taiwan's shores the whole day while we plodded our way south. The best part of the trip was an old section of the highway, now closed because of its perpetual damage. Closed to cars, open to anything else. That meant us! A long stretch of road, just to us this day.

Outside our house, bikes ready to take us away. A stop by the start of the ocean trail that would take us to the main coastal highway to check our gear.



Biking along the trail that connects to Highway 11, and along Highway 11 later in the day.




This is part of the section that is closed to traffic, so we had it all to ourselves - epic views, cliff faces and absurd road damage!


The east coast of Taiwan has two main arterial roads heading south; Highway 193, which goes inland between the two mountain ranges, and Highway 11, which follows the coast. Hwy 11 is much less developed, not near the train line, and gets battered by typhoons and coastal erosion. So, the road here at points is precarious, but stunning. Along the way there is constant repairs, damage and utter chaos at points (see above!) But, it is without doubt the best way to get from north to south if you are not in a rush.



Finally at Jici! A coffee break and lunch were exactly what was needed at this point of the trip.


After 4 hours of riding, along a part of the road that held more uphill than our heavily burdened bikes wanted to tackle, but did, we arrived in a nice little coffee shop in the middle of, almost, nowhere. Off our bikes, ringing out the sweat drenched clothing (ok, that was just me....) and sitting down to some juice (Crystal) and coffee (me) with a view. Below us was Jici Beach, our lunch destination. Only 5 km more, gloriously downhill, and we were sitting at a little shop chomping on some rice and cabbage.



Biking along the roadway some more...action shot styles. Crystal on the right sipping away at the local, cavewater coffee.



Back on the road for part two, re-sunscreened and re-energized and re-riced and re-cabbaged and re-tea'd. this stretch was a more pleasant, flatter (mostly!) ride that allowed us to enjoy the scenery more. Along the way it was all ocean, all the time....


Arriving in the village of Shitiping, basically a fishing harbour and a smattering of houses and stores to fill basic needs, we were beat. Its not so much the length as the hills and the heat. Not a complaint, merely an excuse to make our sore legs feel better!!


Shitiping, along with the houses and harbour has one other splendid attraction - a coffee shop. Coffee beans from the mountains in Taiwan, groundwater (sourced from a cave on the owners property) as the key ingredient and an epic view of the ocean. A perfect way to end a seven hour push south.







Biology and geology are the key ingredients to Shitiping - these are but a few tastes of the place.


Shitiping, along with the houses and harbour and coffee shop...., also has a perfectly quaint campsite. We grabbed a site (to the absolute incalculable confusion of the park staff who, in utter astonishment, couldn't understand why we would be ok with a campsite without electricity and lights...you have to experience Taiwan outdoors life to understand this...they repeatedly asked us "do you understand Chinese? This campsite has no electricity!" To which we responded, again and again "yes, I know. Why do we need electricity?".


To which they responded... "Do you understand Chinese? This ..." And on and on...


Until I blurted out "Canadian people don't like electricity!".


Then we left them and went to our campsite. They still didn't believe us...







The birds were crazy here, singing and prancing about, the sun setting over the mountains and the salty air humid and thick. Shitiping at its finest.




As beautiful as Shitiping, Hualien...Taiwan...is, there is always the garbage issue. Environmental education is earning its place in e school ethos slowly, and most adults not only don't understand what is right/wrong, but they don't teach their kids. So, schools and the science/environmental community have a hefty battle ahead, but a vital one.




Morning views - you cant see it in the picture on the left but there is a sea of birds there calling and chirping away in beautiful song, while we tend to our breakfast duties.








After a solid nights sleep we got up, ate, played on the rocks a bit, poked around for critters in the tide pools, then hit the road again, much to the chagrin of our legs. To we were going to head across the mountains to Ruisui, then take the train back to Hualien. A slight drizzle accompanied us, but other than that it was a pleasant ride. This mountain road is, while lacking in ocean views (obviously!) simply peaceful. Monkeys, birds, butterflies....nature abounds and it was just us and the empty road for the day.








A magi snack-stop along the way home...


Biking up the hill that accounts for the entire (almost) second half of the trip from the ocean to Ruisui...steady, but not too steep. On the right, the view of the SiouGuLuan River that empties the water from the rift valley into the ocean.




Snake, which we found already killed, was enough to call our attention and give us a short, slight scare. Still looking into this specific species....poisonous or not, it was cool to see!


This ride was much shorter, a shade over 3 hours, and we arrived in Ruisui in time for lunch. Hotpot, coffee, then to the train...and home. Wonderful ride, wonderful sights and a wonderful weekend. (then we whipped up some pizza!)